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SERVICING
THE LESLIE MOTORS
Remember
to keep your motors clean and well oiled.
(1)
Servicing the Fast Motors.
There are
two types of motors. The fast motor and the slow motor. The fast motors
seem to need less maintenance than the slow motors because they are larger
and better built. Also, the shaft doesn't have to travel both around and
up and down like the slow motors do.
Remove the motor
assembly. Separate the slow motor from the fast. Check the fast motor
for freedom of spinning. If it spins freely and looks relatively clean,
then oil the top and bottom bearings. Notice that inside the small holes
around the shafts is a felt material. Soak this felt also which will hold
oil near the bearing.
If the motor is unusually
dirty or is having problems spinning, then you should disassemble it for
a more precise service. The large wheel which holds the rubber o'ring
should be removed. The pulley should be removed. There is a small "C"
clamp on the shaft just below the pulley which should be removed. Remove
the four screws on the motor case and slide it all apart. Thoroughly clean
the shafts and bearings. Remove any old oil or sludge. You can better
see the felt around the bearings from the inside. Soak the felt with oil.
Put oil on the shafts and bearings. Reassemble the motor and the wheel
and pulley. Clean off any excess oil on the case, shafts etc.
(2) Servicing
the Slow Motors.
The slow motor usually
will have a couple of problems. First, check the shaft for freedom of
spinning and moving up and down. On the upper rotor assembly, the slow
motor has a spring on the bottom of the armature that will lose some of
it's strength over time. This will allow the armature to "bottom out"
when switching to the fast motor. This will cause a "clunk" or even a
grinding sound depending on how bad it is. Disassemble it carefully remembering
how it comes apart so you can put it back together.
Take the spring and
with small needle nose pliers slightly stretch it. Be very careful
NOT to over do this. Reassemble and test. You are looking for the armature
NOT to bottom out when released. I just hold the shaft up from the top
and give it a spin and release it. If it hits the bottom of the frame,
then an additional stretching is needed. If not, then you got it. If you
over stretch it, the slow motor will have trouble disengaging from the
o'ring.
Now clean it very
thoroughly. Notice there are oiling holes (on most) on the frame near
the top and bottom shaft. Inside is again a felt that needs to be saturated.
Don't get in a hurry here, it takes some time. Also add oil to the shafts
and bearings. The slow motor on the lower drum works upside down and usually
does NOT have the bottoming out problem. Clean off any excess oil when
assembled.
(3) Putting
it all together.
Lastly, the rubber
"o'ring" where the slow motor connects to the fast motor should be replaced.
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When the o'ring wears out you can lose your slow speed or have noise when
running in slow speed.
Reassemble and make
sure that the adjustment for the slow motor is set right. Basically if
it's too tight, the slow motor will not completely engage to the o'ring
or if it does, will not release from it. If it is too loose, then the
slow speed will be "soft" and not have much torque. I like to see the
fast motor immediately change to slow when the slow motor engages. If
the motor has any slippage while changing to the slower speed, the wear
on the o'ring will increase.
(4) Adjusting
the Lower Belt.
The lower belt is
adjustable and should be checked while working on the motors. If too tight,
there is no slippage on the belt so when changing from fast to slow for
example, a great deal of stress will be applied to the o'ring. Also the
operating noise will be greater. If it's too loose, the rotor may not
reach full speed. You adjust the tension by the position of the motor
to the drum. Loosen the wing nut on the motor and push it away from the
rotor until the belt is taut, but do not force it beyond this point. Tighten
the wing nut.
My test for belt
tension is this; 5 to 8 seconds. In other words, if I don't have any o'ring
slippage,(which is what I want) then the belt is adjusted so that the
time from slow to fast and fast to slow is around 5 to 8 seconds.
Another test is when
switching from slow to fast, somewhere about half way to fast, the lower
drum motor should brake free and spin all the way up while the drum is
still accelerating. a looser belt is OK if you like a slower speed change
and no extra wear will occur.
(5) Oiling.
The motors require
little lubrication, and usually at yearly intervals. This requirement
is relative to the amount of usage, but other factors can be involved;
dust and dirt, for example can absorb the lubricant, leaving the bearings
too dry to operate properly. An oiling schedule can only be worked out
through experience with each individual situation. Generally, there is
a tendency to over oil. Thus, all factors should be considered in determining
just when lubrication is to be done.
Correct oiling of
either of the motor assemblies requires their complete removal from the
cabinet. Bearings are located inside the two end covers on each of the
motors. These are sleeve-type (Oilite) bearings, and each is surrounded
by a felt pad which functions as an oil reservoir.
Both the bearings
in the small motor, and the bearing nearest the pulley on the fast motor,
can be oiled without disassembly. The bearing near the rubber tire drive
wheel cannot be accessed with out separating the two motors and removing
the drive wheel.
In applying oil,
care should be taken to avoid excessive amounts. Each felt pad can absorb
an ample, but Limited, amount of oil. If the Leslie Oil provided is not
available, use a good small motor oil like sewing machine oil.
Remember,
keep the motors clean and oiled.
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